River Dance - McKenzie River Wild

RIVER DANCE

The McKenzie River Wild

The McKenzie River is like no other river found in Oregon.  Its origin is Great Spring, where years of filtered water quietly emerge and flow into Clear Lake where a sunken forests looms under the surface.  From Clear Lake the McKenzie River begins its journey toward the sea.  The river's first great natural wonder is Sahalie Falls.

 

Sahalie Falls cascades 140 feet, (according to the book: Waterfall Lover's Guide - by Gregory A. Plumb), and tumbles over an ancient volcanic lip, crashing into a deep blue pool surrounded by moss covered rocks and trees.  The constant drifting spray from the falls douses the surrounding area keeping it very green even in the hotest of summer days.

Sahalie Falls is listed in books and on the internet as being a height anywhere from 60 to 140 feet.  Why the huge difference, I don't know, but I am making an educated guess that the falls is actually at least 100 feet.

Sahalie is by far the most famous of the large waterfalls along the McKenzie, as illustrated in the falls being used in the Disney movie Homeward Bound.  The 1993 Walt Disney movie classic, Homeward Bound, was filmed at several location throughout Oregon.  Sahalie Falls was the location used when the cat tumbles over a waterfall and is presumed dead.

(You'll have to rent the movie to find out what happened to the cat at Sahalie Falls.)

Sahalie Falls was originally known as Upper Falls before the Clear Lake area was developed for recreation purposes.  In Chinook jargon, the old trade language of Northwest Indians, sahalie meant "top," "upper," "high," "sky," and "heaven."

Below the falls, the water continue down an incredible journey flowing into a small volcanic gorge that decends rapidly down the canyon.  Several un-named cascades dominate this volcanic gorge.

Even though the McKenzie River originates in Clear Lake, just a few miles upstream, the river sustains a very significant volume all year long thanks to the large drainage area to the northeast which consists largely of plains of lava flows.

Water doesn’t linger on the surface and seeps underground, forming one of the larger aquifers in Oregon, then it all emerges in springs around Clear Lake. The result is one of the most consistent rivers in the northwest.

On hot summer days, where it can be 90 degrees at the Sahalie Falls parking lot, the river canyon can be 20 to 30 degrees cooler, thanks to the frigid temperature and rapid movement of the water.  The cold water rapidly drops from one pool to the next on a half mile journey from Sahalie Falls to the next cascade...Koosah Falls.

The gorgeous Koosah Falls thunders over a sharp ancient volcanic escarpment and plunges

80 to 120 feet, (according to the book: Waterfall Lover's Guide - by Gregory A. Plumb),  but I want to say the falls drops higher than Sahalie Falls.  I think Koosah Falls is more like 120 feet.  Again, why with today's technology has it not been determined the actual heights of these two falls, just puzzles me?

In modest flows during the summer, the falls appear as one or two segments, but during the peak of snowmelt, the river spreads across the whole ledge, becoming a 100 foot wide wall of ear-splitting foam thundering into the canyon below.

Koosah is a Chinook Jargon word meaning “sky”, a possible homage to the crystal blue color of the river.

At the base of Koosah Falls, "fissure springs" are visible in several location.  These springs illustrate the flow of water underground.  The three springs circled in the photo above, flow all year.

The upper McKenzie River drainage acts much like a sponge soaking up a lot of water, and the ground is porous, also like a sponge.  Water is on the surface at times and water is underground at times.  If you look closely, you can see these exit springs all over the river basin.  The springs below Koosah Falls flow at a constant rate.

Below Koosah Falls, the river continues speeding on it way.  The river again narrows and winds through another steep basalt canyon.

Maiden-hair ferns quietly line the canyon walls while the river "dances" by.

Imagine the crystal clear quiet blue waters of Clear Lake, only on the move in the McKenzie Gorge.

The McKenzie River is one of Oregon's most unique fast moving water systems.  The river definately "dances."  Take the time and enjoy the short pictorial video (below), of some of my favorite shots taken on the McKenzie, and put with the song "Distant Memories" by James Horner.

Tamolitch Pool - McKenzie River

Tamolitch Pool - McKenzie River

One of Oregon's utmost concealed treasures is the Tamolitch Pool, located on the upper reaches of the McKenzie River.  This unusual natural wonder is rarely scene by the average tourist.  An astonishing pool of frigid high alpine water that springs up from the ancient lava flow.

Tamolitch Pool is where the McKenzie River emerges from the basalt covered terrain.  Due to the porous nature of the basaltic lava in the area, water has a difficult time staying on top of the ground, especially in low water flow seasons.  From just below Carmen Resevoir the entire McKenzie River suddenly vanishes.  It flows underground for roughly 3.5 miles before silently bubbling back up at the place known as Tamolitch pool.

But before Tamolitch Pool can be discussed, you first must get there.  Being a part of the McKenzie River Trail, Tamolitch Pool can be reached from two different directions.  From the north you start at Carmen Reservoir and hike south following the "dry river bed."  From the south you start at Trailbridge Reservoir and hike north along the river.

 

I chose to hike from the south and journey upstream to the Pool.

This trail leads you through magnificent old growth fir, hemlock and cedar, with wild rhododendrons, and ferns of all kinds.

Vine Maples decorate the forest floor in every direction.  At the time I hiked the trail, Fall was beginning to take its hold on the damp landscape.

Shortly into the hike the forest canopy blocked out the rays of the sun, and an erie feeling came across me...a feeling as though I was being watched by an illusive preditor.  Cougar and/or Black Bear would be the two creatures I would not want to come across, especially alone, or with somebody for that matter.  Chills ran down my spine, and my heart raced a bit.

The trees were covered in moss, the rocks were covered in moss, branches and logs on the ground were covered in moss.  Moss was everywhere.  This place could have been in the movie Lord of the Rings.  My imagination started to control my reality and the trees started taking on unusual creature like forms.

 

The preditory chill followed me.  It didn't help either that about a mile into the hike, I came across some fresh bear droppings.  I wanted out of there.  I was hoping that my internal fear was just that...internal.  I trekked on, despite the possible danger of coming face to face with a bear.  Staying alert and cautious of the surroundings became the forfront of my hike. 

As long as the trail stayed near the river, there was plenty of light to illuminate the forest floor.  My dog, Pynekone, was with me, and I kept him close.  I monitored is behavior.  When he acted bored, I knew I was okay, and nothing threatening was near.

Along the trail I listened for birds sounding happy and active chattering squirrels.  I did my best to focus on the beauty of the dense temperate volcanic forest that surrounded me and photograph the Cascade forest at its best.  I calmed down, but stayed alert.

The trail eventually climbs atop an ancient lava flow, the very flow that altered the McKenzie River at Tamolitch Pool.  The trail climbs higher and the river is soon far below you quietly making its way down a steep sided gorge.

Hiking for almost two miles, the roar of the river became faint and the sound of moving water was no more.  I knew I must be near Tamolitch Pool.

...and there it was, Tamolitch Pool, where the McKenzie River reappears from its underground journey.

Though the pool appears to be quiet, a closer look reveals a lot of activity within the crystal clear water.  There are several active springs within the pool where the McKenzie River makes it way back to the surface.  (The picture above was taken at the top of the Tamolitch Falls - the last of three major falls along the Mckenzie River.)

Tamolitch Pool is rarely visited by the traditional tourist, and the Tamolitch Falls is rarely seen by those who journey to the pool.  The falls can be seen during most high water seasons, winter and early spring.  I visited the pool in October...there was no falls.

The photo above shows the location of the falls, known as Dry Falls when water isn't flowing over the basalt cliff.  The yellow line shows a break in the old lava flow where springs also occur during higher water levels.

The picture below is what the falls and springs look like when "flowing" on the surface.

Tamolitch Falls is about 60 feet high.  As the snow melt decreases, so will the falls...

...eventually the Tamolitch Falls dissappears but the springs continue into early summer, but they too will quit flowing.

The color of the pool is phenomenal.  This IS its true color.

The pool was quiet and crystal clear.

The intense color can definately rival that of the blue waters of Crater Lake.

 Tamolitch is a Chinook word for "tub" or "bucket" due to the bucket-like basalt bowl where the river emerges.  I am glad they went with the Chinook word, Tamolitch, for it compliments the phenenomenal pool rather than, "bucket."

It is an amazing place...a full-sized river "beginning" or re-emerging from a single point.

I sat on the edge of the dry falls and just listened.  There was little sound.  A spiritual level of respect and admiration for the rare beauty before me can not be ignored here.  I sat on the edge and whispered to myself, "This is amazing!"  I definately saw God this day.

The silence of the pool was soon interupted by the force of gravity, pulling the river up and out of the crytalline blue pool, and the McKenzie River continues on its journey through the basalt sided gorge.

I soon realized I would have to leave this peaceful place and make my way back through the dense, damp, moss covered trail that brought me to the mystical Tamolitch Pool.  Once again, a sense of fear came over me.  Could there really be something quietly stalking me, or was it all my imagination?

 On the return hike, I made sure to make a lot of noise to alert "my preditor." I wanted the hungry beast to know that I was just passing through and offered no harm.  Pynekone didn't seem to be bothered by his surroundings, or my whistling.

  I didn't cross paths with any other hiker the entire hike.  I am sure my heart would have leaped out if I did suddenly encounter another person.  I came upon the same bear droppings that generated my fears and I quickly moved on.

I have hiked many trails for many miles alone over the years, and I must admit that this hike was the first time I was bothered and mentally distressed with fear of an attack by an unknown preditor.  I guess it really didn't help that prior to my hike I watched a few programs on the National Geographic Channel of a couple being ambushed by a cougar, and a program showing what to do if attacked by a bear, or another program searching for the illusive Sasquatch.  I made it back to my truck safe and sound.  And, they say Television doesn't influence one's mind.

In my opinion, the Tamolitch Pool is a hundred times better than the popular springs of the Metolius River headwaters.  Some secrets are better left alone.